SeedZoo Seed Packets Arrived

I recently wrote about Richters new SeedZoo program aimed at keeping rare and endangered food plants growing via home gardeners.  I ordered three packets - Armenian giant black bean, Hutterite bean and monkeyface pepper.  The seeds are GMO free and heirloom so the goal is home gardeners will keep some of the seeds from their harvest, perhaps share a few with family and friends and in this way keep these rare plants in production.

My seeds arrived a couple of days ago.  I was very anxious as to checking the mailbox daily so the seeds would not be sitting in freezing conditions.  The seeds are $6 per packet plus shipping and handling with only 10 seeds each in the bean packets and 30 seeds in the pepper packet. According to the website, the plant varieties have rarely if ever been grown in North American gardens, although I do know the Hutterite bean has been grown in Canada.  There's no indication of germination rate or even success growing these plants in home gardens in North America.  Price combined with uncertainty is definitely a deterrent for this project and given the low number of seeds, there is very little room for error.

These seeds cannot be simply planted and hope for the best.  Well, they could but if unsuccessful not only has money been wasted, the opportunity to keep these rare and endangered food plants in our crop diversity has also been wasted.  I devised a plan to start one bean plant from each packet to grow indoors, leaving me nine seeds per packet for later.  Beans will grow indoors so all I need is to get the plants to maturity enough to produce one or two pods.  If they produce more then great.  I will harvest any of those pods for seed collection only.

I once had a rabbit destroy all my bean plants shortly after emerging and only about 3 - inches tall.  Now that was a tick-off but I was able to replant, protect the area and still have a crop.  We have at least one rabbit here so these bean plants will be protected as soon as they are planted outdoors.  I also need to be careful the monkeyface peppers are not close enough to my other peppers to prevent unwanted cross-pollination.  If these seeds prove viable in our little corner of Ontario, saving them for the next year's crop and sharing should not be a problem.

Hybrids vs Heirloom Plants

When it comes to gardening there are two types of plants - hybrids and heirloom.  In order to understand the difference, you need to know a bit of basic genetics.  An heirloom plant is one that has not been modified other than by nature.  It breeds true  meaning if you collect seeds from the plant, the resulting plants from the seeds will be the same as the parent plant (P).  An hybrid is the crossing of two parent plants with different characteristics to result in a unique plant.  Now, let say we cross a plant with white (rr) flowers and a plant with red (RR) flowers.  I'm using r as the recessive allele and R as the dominant allele.  The rr and RR are the alleles for the flower colour so in this case the only way to get white flowers is to have two alleles that are recessive while the only way to get red is to have two dominant alleles.  Two of the same alleles is called homozygous.  A hybrid occurs when you cross two homozygous plants to form a heterozygous plant for that particular trait.  So in this case the cross is RR x rr.  The resulting pink flower plant (F₁) is the hybrid that in terms of alleles is Rr and it does not have the same flower colour as the parents (white, red).  What happens if we take that hybrid and cross it with the same hybrid for the next generation (F₂)?  Consider a cross between a pink flowered plant (Rr) and a pink flowered plant (Rr).  What we end up with is a 1:2:1 ratio of 1 RR (red):2 Rr (pink):1 rr (white).  In other words seeds collected from the hybrid do not breed true so you may get the one you want (pink) but there is also a chance of getting one you don't want (white or red).

To complicate matters further, plant reproduction can be sexual (seeds) or asexual (cuttings).  Even if you start with a hybrid, if you propagate via asexual methods, the resulting plant will be the same as the parental plant.  However, as we see above if a hybrid is propagated sexually the resulting plant may or may not be the same as the parental plant.  As a home gardener, what this means is seed collection should be done from heirloom plants not hybrids.   These are the seeds you want to keep to grow the same variety the following year.  Some hybrid plants are propagation protected meaning you can collect seeds but you cannot legally propagate via cuttings.  If you want to take cuttings from tomatoes to grow indoors, you should not take them from a propagation protected hybrid tomato plant.  There is nothing wrong with collecting seeds from hybrids but be aware some seed developers have introduced a gene into their hybrids that essential render the plant sterile meaning any seed produced will not germinate.  It would be a shame to collect seeds from hybrids anticipating the same variety the following year only to find you end up with something else (not always a bad thing) or worse yet the seeds don't germinate.  In addition to this, some seed developers have also introduced a marker gene into the plant's genome so they can identify plants illegally propagated.  This is not a huge concern for home gardeners unless you are selling or trading plants that are propagation protected.

I use a combination of hybrids and heirloom plants in my gardens.  I collect seeds from both but tend to focus on seed collection of heirlooms first to replenish my gardens for the following year.  I am careful to label as to whether the seeds were from an heirloom plant or hybrid plant but the reality is plant tags get lost over the growing season so sometimes a clipping gets through that shouldn't.  I'm not selling plants though.  When it comes to hybrids, I try to use hybrids that are not propagation protected especially for tomatoes that I like to grow indoors during the winter months.  Heirloom seeds are the ones you want to collect and protect!

Happy Gardening!

Garden Gnome
©2006-2012

Repotting Houseplants and Starting Seeds

It's that time of year!  Spring is just around the corner and with our ADLF quickly approaching it is time to start seeds.  I have been busy repotting all of my houseplants into self-watering pots.  I really do like the pots!  The larger self-watering pots for the floor plants are only $7.47 at Wal-Mart which is rather inexpensive compared to some of the regular pots that size (12 - inch).   I used the smaller 7 - inch self-watering pots from the dollar store ($1.25 each) to repot all of my indoor herbs.  My indoor herb collection is lower than I would like.  I currently have two pots of parsley, oregano, lemon thyme, sage, sweet basil, 2 pots of rosemary, and mauve garlic chives.

I am rather pleased that all the geraniums I brought with us when we moved survived!  One of the local schools sold geraniums last year for $3 each which is more expensive than the nursery or other stores but it was for a good cause.  I bought ten to pop into window boxes without actually planting the boxes for instant splashes of colour while the house was on the market.  I used the same size (12 - inch) self-watering pot to transplant three geraniums into each one for two matching planters for the front porch.  That leaves me a total of eleven more geraniums to transplant. 

I also used the same size self-watering pot to repot the Hibiscus that survived the move.  Wal-mart had them on sale for $5.  I bought two of them to pop as is into tub containers on each side of the front door when the house was on the market.  Once the house sold, one went to my husband's office then made it's way to our new house.  The other came directly to our new house where it sat on the deck.   I brought it in as soon as the temperature started dropping as the Hibiscus only tolerates temperatures above 50ºF.  The one that had been at the office was barely surviving so I wasn't surprised when it looked dead after a brief cold spell.  It is still on the deck as I was curious whether it would come back in the spring.

Our ADLF is April 15 so this is the time to start some herbs, tomatoes, peppers and ornamentals.  I did a bit of seed shopping.  My goal this year is to grow as much as possible from seed rather than buy plants but I know I will still buy plants because I can't resist.  I started purple basil, lemon basil, sweet basil, thai basil, cinnamon basil and lavender in individual greenhouse pots.  These are rather neat so I will talk more about them tomorrow.  I bought a 72 cell greenhouse starter kit that will be used for starting tomato, peppers and a few ornamentals.  'Tis a busy time but a rather pleasant way to spend a bit of time while visions of my new gardens dance through my head :)



Happy Gardening!

Garden Gnome
©2006-2012

Protecting Saved Seeds

As a home gardener I am also a seed saver.  Seeds can be saved from any plant but heirlooms are preferred as they breed true unlike seeds from hybrid plants.  Really from a genetic perspective if you cross two hybrids you have a 25% chance of the resulting plant being true for either of the homozygous traits but a 50% chance of it it being nothing like the parental plant.  I grow and save heirloom seeds from plants that were grown using organic practices.  I also buy seed from companies where I know they use organic growing practices.  What many new gardeners do not realize aside of the quality of the seed (eg. heirloom, organic) is seeds are living entities.  During storage, seeds collected from your garden or purchased need a bit of protection to ensure a good germination rate.    The germination rate is determined over a certain number of seeds.  Let's say you plant 100 seeds and 5 germinate into seedlings.  The germination rate if 5% which by any measurement is close to a waste of time and energy BUT in some cases that 5% may be the best you are ever going to get.

In general, seeds should be stored in such a manner that you have enough to plant two seasons' worth of garden.  Seeds should be properly stored in your pantry protected from light, heat, insects and rodents.  Store in vacuum sealed glass mason jars to protect against these threats.  Light, moisture and heat can cause sprouting and/or moulding.  Insects and rodents can quickly eat through your supply of stored seeds.  Properly stored seeds will keep for at least two years and longer but longer storage may result in lower germination rates. 

Happy Gardening!

Garden Gnome
©2006-2012

Garden Seeds are Appearing in the Stores

I was at Home Hardware today picking up paint for the bathroom.  As I went to the check-out I noticed two large displays of garden seeds!  I popped a packet of Little Marvel peas in with my painting supplies.  I am planning on painted every room in the house this winter but you can bet I will still make time to get my seedlings ready for the new gardens.  It won't be long now :)

Happy Gardening!

Garden Gnome
©2006-2012

Ordering Seed Catalogues

It's that time of year!  I have a lot of plans for my new gardens in the spring so I spent a bit of time ordering seed catalogues today.  This was triggered by receiving my shipment of potted herbs from Richters (Goodwood, ON) and the first snow flurry of the season.  I focused on those seed companies located in Ontario, Canada offering seeds and/or plants.  It is very important for me that any edible plants were grown organically, free of synthetic chemicals and pesticides.  We live in beautiful Ontario so when I order from an Ontario based seed company or grower, I am supporting our local economy.  The nice thing is when I order live plants they arrive within a day or two resulting in a lot less stress for them.  Here's a few seed companies and growers I recommend:

• Ritchters (Goodwood, ON) - superb quality and pesticide free medicinal, culinary and aromatic herbs
• OSC Seeds (Waterloo, ON) - high quality herb, vegetable, flower and tree seeds
• Stokes (Thorold, ON) - high quality seed and plants for all gardening needs including heirloom varieties
• Dominion Seed House (Georgetown, ON) - high quality seeds, plants and bulbs by mail order
• AgroHaiti (Lynden, ON) - specializing in Oriental vegetable seeds [online catalogue only]
• Florabunda Seeds (Indian River, ON) - specializing in heirloom varieties for cottage gardens
• Terra Edibles (Foxboro, ON) - organically grown heirloom seeds

Happy Gardening!

Garden Gnome
©2006-2011

Nixing the Seed Catalogues

Every year about this time after the main gardening season is over, I take a bit of time to go my notes of what plants did well and new varieties that I would like to try the following year.  Then I set about ordering seed catalogues that usually arrive in the coldest part of the winter so they are a cheery sight!  I keep seed catalogues as garden reference material so they tend to add up a bit.  This year I decided not to place my annual seed catalogue orders.  All of these catalogues are available online with just as much information if not more and the catalogues are searchable.  I will miss the brightly coloured seed catalogues arriving in the midst of winter but I think using the online catalogues is the eco-friendly choice.

Happy Gardening!

Garden Gnome
©2006-2010

Seed Banks

There are many ways to get seeds for your garden with one of the most popular being through seed catalogues.  Another popular method is collecting seeds from plants growing in your garden.  If you join a local garden club they usually offer a seed an/or plant exchange.  You can also get seeds from family and friends who garden.  All of these methods are great ways to get seeds.  One method of getting seeds is through a seed bank.

A seed bank is usually run by one or two gardening enthusiasts but in some cases is run by a gardening group.  Seed banks have slightly different rules based on who is running them.  In general, you put in a request for the seeds you would like along with any seeds you have to offer.  Some seed banks request you donate seeds to help keep the seed bank well stocked.  Most ask that you send a SASE with your request as well.  In return they will send you 5 to 10 seeds of the requested variety if they have it.  The number of seeds will be based on both supply and demand.

There are a few things to be aware of if using a seed bank.  First most seed banks are run by volunteers or individual garden enthusiasts who are not paid.  They are simply doing this because they love gardening and want to help fellow gardeners.  As such they are always very appreciative if you can donate seeds to their seed bank.  It is also considered rude to request too many seed varieties so keep that in mind when making your request.  In general requesting 2 to 4 varieties is acceptable with a seed donation depending on the seed bank.  Don't expect more than 5 to 10 seeds of any one variety.  The may be a lower germination rate for seeds from a seed bank.  The reason for lower germination rate is seed banks accept seed donations that may be collected from gardeners ranging from very inexperienced to very experienced.  The seed bank has no way of knowing the gardener's experience or how the seeds were treated during and after collection.  As with an item being sent through the mail there may be delays and in some cases the envelop may get lost.  Another thing to consider is where the seed bank is located.  If it is outside of your country there may be some restrictions as to what you can order.  Check with Customs first before requesting seeds from seed banks in other countries.  I have not heard of any problems but then I've only dealt with seed banks in Canada.
Happy Gardening!

Garden Gnome
©2006-2010

Saving Seeds

During the home garden harvest most home gardeners save seeds for the following year's garden.  When saving seeds it is important to collect from heirloom plants rather than hybrids.  You can collect seeds from hybrids but they often will not breed true.  Seeds from herbs and flowering plants are best collect after the dew has dried on a clear, dry day.  Do not collect seeds from any plants that show signs of disease.  Collect in such a manner as to keep the seed types separate.  Once collected any plant material such as stems should be removed then the seeds left in open air for at least 24 to 72 hours.  This will ensure there is no moisture.  Place the dry seeds in an airtight container.  Label and store in a cool, dark location.

Some seeds require special preparations for storage.  Beans and peas should be shelled then left to dry fully before storing.  Tomato seeds are encased in a thick pulp.  Remove the seeds with pulp and place in a small bowl.  Cover with water.  Set in a warm location out of direct sunlight.  Skim off anything floating daily.  Let sit for 3 to 4 days.  Pour through a strainer and rinse the seeds well.  Dry the seeds on wax or parchment paper.  Don't dry them on paper towels as the paper will stick to the seeds.  Once dry place in an airtight container for storage.  Store in a cool, dark location.  

Happy Gardening!

Garden Gnome
©2006-2009

Spring Days in the Garden

Sorry for the lack of posts recently. The reality is the gardens in our new home are proving difficult at best. I'm dealing with horrible soil that is mostly clay mixed with a lot of stone and rock along with inclimate weather. The gardens are at the point where I look at them then get frustrated because I simply don't know where to start. The problem is we really are still in the tearing out phase of an over planted and poorly planted property yet we have to take our time because we want to see what is where in case we want to keep it. So the past few days have involved more tearing out and minimal planting. As long as I can get the existing beds straightened around and my herbs planted this year, I will be a very happy gardener!

Path

Much of the perimeter of our property is lined with evergreens of some type with very poorly planted flower beds. Bordering most of the flower beds are rocks but some of the beds have the black plastic edging. We are ripping out most of the rock and all of the plastic edging. The primary reason for doing so is aesthetics. I really don't like the look of plastic edging and I prefer soft lines over the hard lines of rocks.

The rocks along the side walkway were actually creating a problem by forming a sloped hill that drained towards the foundation of the house. The garden beds themselves are tucked under tall cedars so they don't get a lot of light. The soil (before) was mainly covered with decaying wood chips providing the perfect breeding ground for the huge centipedes that find their way indoors. There were also a lot of mis-plantings and in spots gravel as well as flat shale stones throughout the beds. I made an executive decision that the only way to control the earwigs and centipedes was to slope the bed away from the house foundation and remove some of their habitat. So the bark chips were raked up and all the larger rocks were removed. A fair amount of soil had to be removed as well to get the soil level below the sidewalk.

One problem we have that will have to corrected is indicated by the arrow. A portion of the sidewalk has sunk as a result of erosion from water running from the garden bed towards the foundation combined with a downspout that was allowed to direct water directly to the foundation. While it does add a bit of character, correcting the water problems are our first priority. This water issue combined with current serious sewer issues means I will not be doing a lot of planting in the larger side gardens in case right away in case we have to dig up the sewer line.

Tulips & Daffodiles

Scattered throughout our property are lovely clumps of tulips, daffodiles, crocuses and narcisses. This is one good reason for not disturbing the garden beds below surface if you move into a home before seeing what is in the garden beds. The garden beds here are loaded with these beautiful spring flowers. I was rather surprised to not find any hyacinths! At any rate these are all bulbulous perennials so the rule of thumb is when the flower dies off, leave the greenery. It will slowly turn brown at which time you can then remove it. If your crocuses or other bulbulous perennials break through the grass, do not rush with that first grass cutting of the season. The reason for doing this is the leaves are feeding the bulb for next spring's display of colour.

Revamped Bed

Our house is earth bermed meaning it basically is built into a slope. This makes it very energy efficient to heat but diverting water away from the foundation is critical. I quickly found out that what looks like a flower bed and was planted as a flower bed is not a flower bed. Such is the case of this small bed that originally had two unkept boxwoods and dead rose bushes. A feeble attempt at digging revealed that this area is actually meant as foundation drainage so filled with a few feet (yes feet) of gravel with soil on top. What I wanted here was colour so I settled on creeping thyme with shallow roots that will fill the bed with maintenance free colour while not interfering with the intended purpose of the area.

I dug this bead out about 2 inches below the level of the sidewalk, lower than the iron bar that indicated where the brickwork starts on the house. Then I added fresh top soil and leveled out the bed. I put in three solar path lights that will help light the side of the house then I sprinkled on M^cKenzie creeping thyme. This is the first time using this product so I will make a complete post on it as soon as I see the results. Creeping thyme is a low growing ground cover that can handle being stepped on, ideal for the location. Once grown it should soften the edge of the sidewalk without being invasive. Unlike English ivy, it is low growing so will not provide a habitat for field mice, something we have had problems with here.

So, that's what has been happening in our gardens. Yesterday one of my kids removed three evergreen bushes and a dilapidated euonymus bush for me so I'm off to work on one of those spots. I'll post about it shortly.

Happy Gardening!

Garden Gnome
©2007

Seed Catalogues

The weather has turned cold, grey and rainy with bouts of wet snow flurries, definitely not gardening weather. Walking to the mailbox isn't as enjoyable. The walk back to house was enjoyable Friday despite the nasty weather. I had the new Stokes catalogue safely tucked under my arm.

Seed catalogues always bring a bit of sunshine on the dreary, cold days. I'll read through them, dog ear pages and make lists of what I want several times before it's time to order for seed starting. Garden planning helps the winter days pass a bit quicker. They hold the promise of next year's garden. The pictures are bright and enticing. However, seed catalogues are much more than that. They are a valuable resource that not only show what the fruits, vegetables and flowers will look like but give a lot of information on the varieties.

So if you haven't ordered your seed catalogues yet, it's time to do so. That way you will have them to drool over after the holidays while there is still a blanket of snow on the ground.

Happy Gardening!

Garden Gnome
©2007

Strawberries and Moving Plants

Strawberries
June 2, 2007

My strawberries have just started producing. These were the first of the season so I had to share them. The technique used on the photo is called selective colouring, combining black and white with colour done in Photoshop. I will be taking a few of these June bearing strawberry plants to the new house. Unfortunately I do not know the variety but they are very proliferic with large, juicy, sweet berries. I plan to plant some everbearing strawberries at the new house as well. Having had no experience with everbearing varieties I will have to do a little research to see what varieties are best for our plant hardiness zone.

By far the easiest way to bring along plants when you move is to bring established plants. However this can present a few problems. Potted plants take up a lot of room something that can be a major consideration depending on the type of move you are making. Even short distance moves can be problematic when dealing with live plants. A few years ago when we moved into our third house, we rented a large moving truck and had it ready for moving by lunchtime figuring we would get the keys by then. All my houseplants were loaded last so they could be unloaded first and since it was a short distance move I was not anticipating any problems. Unfortunately there was a glitch with the people that had bought our house to the point of the very real possibility of not being able to settle it before the close of business and it was a Friday with all our stuff packed. In the resulting chaos and stiffling heat, no one thought to check on the truck. I lost all but two of my houseplants and all my candles. We learned a valuable lesson that day!

The second problem with transporting live plants especially for the garden is you run the risk of bringing damaging insects and disease that will contaminate your new garden. The best way to avoid this is to take your clipping or transplants well before the move then isolate them well away from other plants. Cover them with garden cloth to prevent insect infestations. Check them daily and treat with a soap solution if necessary.

While I will be taking a very few transplants and clippings, the method I'm favouring for this particular move is seeds collected from last year's plants. Not only will this save a lot of space during the move, it will lessen the problems of moving live plants during the summer when temperatures can soar. The primary reason I decided to limit the number of live plants for the move is that the gardens at the new house are mature landscaping and in some areas overplanted. I have no idea what is planted where aside of the trees and bushed. The current ower was still planting more the day we finalized that sale!
Happy Gardening!

Garden Gnome
©2007

Let the Fun Begin!

It's that time of year folks! Time to get all the seed packets in order, start seedlings indoors and get your hands dirty. It's also a good time to rejuvenate and start houseplants. Let the fun begin!

Seeds Everywhere!

I admit it, I'm just a little behind on starting my seeds indoors but only by a few days. Yesterday was sunny and a balmy 63ºF so that spurred me into action. Unfortunately the prediction is for colder temperatures for the rest of the week with chance of snow flurries. It is March so anything can be expected.

This was the condition of my dining room table yesterday. There were seeds everywhere as I sorted them into various piles. I plant according to the average day of last frost (ADLF) so some seeds are started indoors six to eight weeks before the ADLF while others are planted directly in the ground. Towards the upper corner is my gardening journal for the past year. I cull out the seed packets based on the performance noted in my journal. There are also several zipper sandwich bags holding various seeds I collected. Just barely visible on the chair to the right is a large plastic bin holding various collected seeds as well.

Just Beginning

My biggest problem for starting seeds indoors is space. We don't have a basement or spare room and the house is spatially challenged as it is. So despite my decluttering goals in preparing for spring cleaning, the seed trays will add to visual clutter until I can open the greenhouse.

Near the dining room table were the most of the things to get me going. They were only there for the photo shoot as we would end up tripping over them. This is just a small number of flats I will be starting this year. All the pots and cells had to be washed along with the seed trays. I've vowed to washed them as they are used this time so they are clean and ready to go for next year. I know I have clean ones in the shed but the entry is flooded at the moment.

So Monday I brought in a few of the cells and seed trays to wash, battling drizzling rain but thankful they were in the greenhouse not the shed. The greenhouse needs a complete clean-out but I will talk about that in a later entry. While the first batch was drying, I went to get the Stim-Root® for geranium cutting. I thought I knew right where it was but my husband did a little reorganize so it took me almost 2 hours to find it! By then the rest seemed overwhelming but by yesterday I was ready to get going. Seed sorting took longer than expected and even though I did not get any seeds planted, the soil was mixed and trays filled ready for seeding. I didn't get the aloe divided or geranium cuttings finished but I managed to get the much neglected African violet divided.

African Violet

My mom had a knack with African violets and hers always looked gorgeous likely because she was always tending to them. This was my poor, neglected African violet. It was overcrowded and in need of attention. I decided to divide the plant as from first looks there were two crowns. I also decided to propagate using the water method I saw my mom do countless times.

In preparation for this, I watered the plant well from the bottom. African violets are prone to brown water marks on their leaves so I always water from the bottom. Then I removed the dead flowers. Once it was well watered, I removed it from the pot. As suspected the plant was root bound. Dividing the smaller crown from the main plant was fairly easy to do with my fingers. Before re-potting, I cut away any yellowed leaves as well as a few for starting in water.

The Aftermath

I potted the larger piece of the plant in a 6" pot and the smaller piece in a 4" pot. Then four leaves were placed through holes in plastic wrap so their cut ends rested in the water. Once these form roots, they will be transplanted into pots. The new plant will grow from the cut end up through the soil and at the same time the old leave will begin withering. Once dead, the leaf can be removed.

This morning the new African violets appear to have survived their ordeal with no signs of shock. I'll post entries of their progress along the way.

Happy Gardening!

Garden Gnome
©2007

Cactus Kit Update

Cactus Seedlings

It took a bit longer but there are now eight cactus seedlings. They are about a quarter of an inch tall. There are a few seeds that haven't germinated yet so perhaps they will before the dome lid needs to be removed. Now the soil needs to be kept just moist to prevent the seedlings from rotting but to give enough moisture to allow the seedlings to survive until the first spines appear. At that time the dome lid is removed and watering will be decreased to about once a month. I'll post another update once the spines form.

Garden Gnome
© 2007

Cactus Seedlings

Cactus Seedlings

I brought home a cute cactus starting kit from Las Vegas on our recent trip. This was an ideal solution since I thought trying to transport cactus plants on the plane or through Canadian customs would be problematic. The kit came with the soil, a seed packet that could contain upto ten varieties of cactus (including saguaro, prickly pear, cholla, fire barrel, fishhook barrel and hedgehog), a small plastic pot, a clear plastic dome lid and instructions. I followed the instructions but planted only about a quarter of the seed packet on the 25^th of January. Today I noticed two small sprouts. It has taken longer than the low estimate of 3 days but that's ok. Once the seedlings develop tiny spines the dome top can be removed. I'll report back as they grow.

Happy Gardening

Garden Gnome
© 2007

When to plant?

This question comes up over and over and with our changing climate it is still a hard question to answer. When I was younger everyone aimed to have their gardens planted on the Victoria Day Weekend (May 24). However, things have changed as far as when to plant. I follow the Average Day of Last Frost (ADLF) for our location and plant according to that. Last year the ADLF was May 9. One month before the ADLF I planted lettuces, onions, peas, radishes and spinach. Two weeks before the ADLF I planted beets, carrots, swiss chard and potatoes. On the ADLF beans, tomatoes, ground cherries and sunflowers were planted. Two weeks after the ADLF I planted cucumbers, melons, zucchini and peppers. Ok, so this likely sounds a little complicated however it really isn't.

The whole concept of staggered planting and continuous plantings makes common sense for managing square foot gardening. The square are contantly being harvested and replanted as the method calls for and that is because you are only working with a square foot at a time. Staggered planting allows you to get an early start on those vegetables that tolerate the cold well which can be achieved in any garden but with raised beds, you can get an even earlier start since the soil warms faster. But one thing I like about staggered and continuous plantings is the work is not done all at once. It helps to keep your interest without the gardening feeling like work.

Happy Gardening

Garden Gnome
© 2007